香水術語表

Absolute

A highly concentrated aromatic material extracted from flowers, resins or gums using volatile solvents, then washed with alcohol. More potent and often darker-smelling than the corresponding essential oil.

雅閣

A blend of materials that reads as a single, unified smell — the point at which individual notes stop being separable. Accords describe how a fragrance actually smells rather than what is listed in it.

沉香/烏木

Resinous heartwood formed when Aquilaria trees respond to fungal infection. One of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery, now largely replaced in commercial fragrances by synthetic oud accords.

醛類

A family of synthetic molecules, most famously the fatty aldehydes used in Chanel No. 5. They read as waxy, soapy, citrus-peel bright and give a vintage 'perfumey' quality.

Amber

A loose category rather than a single material: usually a base built from labdanum, vanilla and benzoin, giving a warm, sweet-resinous glow. Not the fossil resin of the same name.

Ambergris

A waxy substance produced in the digestive tract of sperm whales and found floating or on shore. Prized as a fixative; now almost universally replaced by synthetic substitutes such as ambroxan.

動物性的

具有身體、皮膚般或野性品質的材料的描述詞－果子狸、海狸香、一些麝香和某些花香淨油，如茉莉花。

芳香族

帶有薰衣草、迷迭香或鼠尾草氣息的草本和清新氣息。與“新鮮”不同，“新鮮”通常指柑橘或水生植物，而不是綠色草藥。

霧化器/噴霧器

The pump-and-nozzle assembly. Its type and finish are significant for collectors, since a sprayer change can indicate a packaging revision even when the code is unchanged.

阿塔爾

一種傳統的油基蒸餾法，歷史上來自印度和中東，透過將花蒸餾成檀香油而製成。

基調

蒸發最慢的材料，在乾燥時首先聞到氣味。通常是木材、樹脂、麝香和香草。它們決定了香味在皮膚上的持續時間。

批號

A short alphanumeric string printed on the bottle base or box that usually encodes a production date. It dates a bottle approximately; it does not prove authenticity.

客製化/獨家系列

A collection made in small volumes and sold only through a house's own boutiques. Released in smaller runs, which makes them more sensitive to the second-hand market than mass-distribution lines.

花束

圍繞著花卉構建的和諧構圖，或只是混合（而不是透明）結構的同義詞。

西普

An accord built on a contrast of citrus top notes, a labdanum–oakmoss base and a floral heart. Named after Coty's 1917 Chypre; the classic chypre structure was largely broken by restrictions on oakmoss.

果子狸

來自果子狸肛周腺的糊狀物，歷史上用於提供溫暖和深度。由於動物福利法規，現在普遍是合成的。

濃度

How much perfume compound is dissolved in alcohol. Common designations, in ascending order: eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, extrait. The definition is house-dependent, not standardised.

醒酒

A portion of a fragrance transferred out of its original bottle into a smaller vessel by a third party. Common in the collector market; note that decants break the chain between bottle, batch code and remaining quantity.

乾燥

在頂部和中心蒸發之後，香水在皮膚上演變的最後階段。一個小時或更長時間後，香水聞起來是什麼樣的。

EAU

Eau de toilette.

EDC / 古龍水

最輕的常見濃度，傳統上為 2-5% 的化合物。通常是柑橘味的且短暫。

淡香水/淡香精

通常為 15–20% 的化合物。比 EDT 更持久，現在是大多數新版本的預設濃度。

淡香水/淡香水

通常為 5–15% 的化合物。比 EDP 更清新、更輕盈，並且是許多經典香水的原始濃度。

精油

A volatile oil obtained from plant material by steam distillation or expression. The traditional aromatic base of perfumery, now partly replaced by synthetic molecules.

萃取物/香水

最高常見濃度，通常為 20-40% 化合物。比 EDP 更豐富、更緩慢，通常用於唱片公司的經典發行。

固定劑

添加的材料可減緩蒸發並使組合物在皮膚上保持在一起。麝香、樹脂、一些木材和合成固定劑，如降龍涎香醚。

側衛

A new release built on an existing successful fragrance and sold under a variation of its name — an Intense, a Legere, a limited edition. Collectors treat flankers as separate compositions, because they usually are.

富熱爾

以薰衣草和香豆素為基礎的結構，帶有苔蘚木質基調。以 Houbigant Fougere Royale (1882) 命名；經典男性香水的支柱。

美食家

採用可食用的材料製成：香草、焦糖、巧克力、咖啡、零陵香豆。自《Angel》（1992）以來的主導商業方向。

頂空

一種捕獲活花釋放的揮發性化合物的技術，用於重建無法蒸餾的氣味。

心筆記

中段，在前調消退後出現，持續幾個小時。通常是花香、香料和软水果。

吲哚類

Describing the heavy, slightly faecal-floral quality of materials such as jasmine absolute and orange blossom, caused by indole. Valued in classical florals; a common complaint in modern ones.

激烈/額外風格的側翼

A flanker presented as stronger than the original. The concentration is not always actually higher — check the listed concentration and the batch code before assuming.

Leather

由樺木焦油、異丁基喹啉或海狸香製成的香調組，重現鞣製皮革的氣味。

浸漬/浸漬

Resting a compounded fragrance for weeks or months before bottling so the materials marry. A long maceration is part of why an older bottle of the same formula can smell different from a newer one.

中東/東方市場

Fragrances released in a stronger concentration or a different formulation for Gulf markets. These are a distinct collector category and should not be confused with the same-named European release.

苔蘚/橡苔

A lichen extract giving a dry, woody, slightly bitter base. Restricted by IFRA, which is the single largest cause of reformulation across the classic chypre and fougere repertoire.

Musk

最初是麝的分泌物；現在幾乎完全是合成的。讀起來溫暖、類似皮膚、有時呈粉狀，具有固定劑的作用。

鼻子/調香師

調配香水的人。在本網站上正確記入；在許多零售網站上，它被完全省略。

注意金字塔

The conventional three-part presentation of a fragrance's materials as top, heart and base. Useful shorthand, but note that modern compositions are not always linear — a pyramid is a description, not a formula.

粉狀

柔軟、乾燥、具有美容功效，通常來自鳶尾花、紫羅蘭或某些麝香和天芥菜。

投影

香味能远离佩戴者多远。與壽命不同，壽命是指它在皮膚上的持續時間。兩者不相關。

重新配製

A change to a fragrance's formula, usually driven by material restrictions, cost or supply. The dated ways to detect it are a change in colour, a weakening of the base, or a batch-code transition.

樹脂和香脂

樹膠狀植物分泌物：安息香、勞丹脂、沒藥、乳香、秘魯香脂。溫暖、黏稠、教堂般的氣息，在琥珀基調中是不可或缺的。

投射

香味在移動中的佩戴者身後的空氣中留下的痕跡。常與投影混淆；投射是尾流，投射是到達範圍。

皮膚化學

The interaction of a fragrance with an individual's skin — temperature, moisture and pH. The main reason the same bottle can smell different on two people, and the reason a sample on paper proves very little.

固體香水

以蠟或香膏為基底而非酒精的香料。保存期限不同，預測不同；獨特的收集器格式。

飛濺/非飛濺

沒有霧化器的瓶子，傾倒或輕拍到皮膚上。在 20 世紀 80 年代之前很常見，並且仍在某些系列中生產。

測試員

A bottle or unit intended for in-store display, usually without a retail box. Testers are frequently sold second-hand; they are not inherently older or newer than retail stock, but the packaging difference affects price.

零陵香豆

Dipteryx odorata 的种子，富含香豆素。帶來甜美、乾草般、杏仁煙草般的溫暖氣息，是馥奇香系列的基調。

前調

最易揮發的物質，在前十五分鐘內就會聞到氣味。通常是柑橘類、芳香類水果和清淡水果。

復古

In this database, used carefully: a bottle produced during the period of an earlier formula, before a documented reformulation. Not simply 'old' — a 1990s bottle of a still-current formula is old but not informative in the same way.

批發/仿冒

Copies sold as original. Counterfeiters print batch codes, so a code that decodes correctly proves nothing. Physical checks — bottle weight, crimp, nozzle, printing quality — matter more than the code.