香水术语表

Absolute

A highly concentrated aromatic material extracted from flowers, resins or gums using volatile solvents, then washed with alcohol. More potent and often darker-smelling than the corresponding essential oil.

雅阁

A blend of materials that reads as a single, unified smell — the point at which individual notes stop being separable. Accords describe how a fragrance actually smells rather than what is listed in it.

沉香/乌木

Resinous heartwood formed when Aquilaria trees respond to fungal infection. One of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery, now largely replaced in commercial fragrances by synthetic oud accords.

醛类

A family of synthetic molecules, most famously the fatty aldehydes used in Chanel No. 5. They read as waxy, soapy, citrus-peel bright and give a vintage 'perfumey' quality.

Amber

A loose category rather than a single material: usually a base built from labdanum, vanilla and benzoin, giving a warm, sweet-resinous glow. Not the fossil resin of the same name.

Ambergris

A waxy substance produced in the digestive tract of sperm whales and found floating or on shore. Prized as a fixative; now almost universally replaced by synthetic substitutes such as ambroxan.

动物性的

具有身体、皮肤般或野性品质的材料的描述词——果子狸、海狸香、一些麝香和某些花香净油，如茉莉花。

芳香族

带有薰衣草、迷迭香或鼠尾草气息的草本和清新气息。与“新鲜”不同，“新鲜”通常指柑橘或水生植物，而不是绿色草药。

雾化器/喷雾器

The pump-and-nozzle assembly. Its type and finish are significant for collectors, since a sprayer change can indicate a packaging revision even when the code is unchanged.

阿塔尔

一种传统的油基蒸馏法，历史上来自印度和中东，通过将花蒸馏成檀香油而制成。

基调

蒸发最慢的材料，在干燥时首先闻到气味。通常是木材、树脂、麝香和香草。它们决定了香味在皮肤上的持续时间。

批号

A short alphanumeric string printed on the bottle base or box that usually encodes a production date. It dates a bottle approximately; it does not prove authenticity.

定制/独家系列

A collection made in small volumes and sold only through a house's own boutiques. Released in smaller runs, which makes them more sensitive to the second-hand market than mass-distribution lines.

花束

围绕花卉构建的和谐构图，或者只是混合（而不是透明）结构的同义词。

西普

An accord built on a contrast of citrus top notes, a labdanum–oakmoss base and a floral heart. Named after Coty's 1917 Chypre; the classic chypre structure was largely broken by restrictions on oakmoss.

果子狸

来自果子狸肛周腺的糊状物，历史上用于提供温暖和深度。由于动物福利法规，现在普遍是合成的。

浓度

How much perfume compound is dissolved in alcohol. Common designations, in ascending order: eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, extrait. The definition is house-dependent, not standardised.

醒酒

A portion of a fragrance transferred out of its original bottle into a smaller vessel by a third party. Common in the collector market; note that decants break the chain between bottle, batch code and remaining quantity.

干燥

在顶部和中心蒸发之后，香水在皮肤上演变的最后阶段。一个小时或更长时间后，香水闻起来是什么样的。

EAU

Eau de toilette.

EDC / 古龙水

最轻的常见浓度，传统上为 2-5% 的化合物。通常是柑橘味的且短暂。

淡香水/淡香精

通常为 15–20% 的化合物。比 EDT 更持久，现在是大多数新版本的默认浓度。

淡香水/淡香水

通常为 5–15% 的化合物。比 EDP 更清新、更轻盈，并且是许多经典香水的原始浓度。

精油

A volatile oil obtained from plant material by steam distillation or expression. The traditional aromatic base of perfumery, now partly replaced by synthetic molecules.

提取物/香水

最高常见浓度，通常为 20-40% 化合物。比 EDP 更丰富、更缓慢，通常用于唱片公司的经典发行。

固定剂

添加的材料可减缓蒸发并使组合物在皮肤上保持在一起。麝香、树脂、一些木材和合成固定剂，如降龙涎香醚。

侧卫

A new release built on an existing successful fragrance and sold under a variation of its name — an Intense, a Legere, a limited edition. Collectors treat flankers as separate compositions, because they usually are.

富热尔

以薰衣草和香豆素为基础的结构，带有苔藓木质基调。以 Houbigant Fougere Royale (1882) 命名；经典男性香水的支柱。

美食家

采用可食用的材料制成：香草、焦糖、巧克力、咖啡、零陵香豆。自《Angel》（1992）以来的主导商业方向。

顶空

一种捕获活花释放的挥发性化合物的技术，用于重建无法蒸馏的气味。

心笔记

中段，在前调消退后出现，持续几个小时。通常是花香、香料和软水果。

吲哚类

Describing the heavy, slightly faecal-floral quality of materials such as jasmine absolute and orange blossom, caused by indole. Valued in classical florals; a common complaint in modern ones.

激烈/额外风格的侧翼

A flanker presented as stronger than the original. The concentration is not always actually higher — check the listed concentration and the batch code before assuming.

Leather

由桦木焦油、异丁基喹啉或海狸香制成的香调组，重现鞣制皮革的气味。

浸渍/浸渍

Resting a compounded fragrance for weeks or months before bottling so the materials marry. A long maceration is part of why an older bottle of the same formula can smell different from a newer one.

中东/东方市场

Fragrances released in a stronger concentration or a different formulation for Gulf markets. These are a distinct collector category and should not be confused with the same-named European release.

苔藓/橡苔

A lichen extract giving a dry, woody, slightly bitter base. Restricted by IFRA, which is the single largest cause of reformulation across the classic chypre and fougere repertoire.

Musk

最初是麝的分泌物；现在几乎完全是合成的。读起来温暖、类似皮肤、有时呈粉状，具有固定剂的作用。

鼻子/调香师

调配香水的人。在本网站上正确记入；在许多零售网站上，它被完全省略。

注意金字塔

The conventional three-part presentation of a fragrance's materials as top, heart and base. Useful shorthand, but note that modern compositions are not always linear — a pyramid is a description, not a formula.

粉状

柔软、干燥、具有美容功效，通常来自鸢尾花、紫罗兰或某些麝香和天芥菜。

投影

香味能远离佩戴者多远。与寿命不同，寿命是指它在皮肤上的持续时间。两者不相关。

重新配制

A change to a fragrance's formula, usually driven by material restrictions, cost or supply. The dated ways to detect it are a change in colour, a weakening of the base, or a batch-code transition.

树脂和香脂

树胶状植物分泌物：安息香、劳丹脂、没药、乳香、秘鲁香脂。温暖、粘稠、教堂般的气息，在琥珀基调中是不可或缺的。

投射

香味在移动的佩戴者身后的空气中留下的痕迹。经常与投影混淆；投射是尾流，投射是到达范围。

皮肤化学

The interaction of a fragrance with an individual's skin — temperature, moisture and pH. The main reason the same bottle can smell different on two people, and the reason a sample on paper proves very little.

固体香水

一种以蜡或香膏为基料而不是酒精的香料。保质期不同，预测不同；独特的收集器格式。

飞溅/非飞溅

没有雾化器的瓶子，倾倒或轻拍到皮肤上。在 20 世纪 80 年代之前很常见，并且仍在某些系列中生产。

测试员

A bottle or unit intended for in-store display, usually without a retail box. Testers are frequently sold second-hand; they are not inherently older or newer than retail stock, but the packaging difference affects price.

零陵香豆

Dipteryx odorata 的种子，富含香豆素。带来甜美、干草般、杏仁烟草般的温暖气息，是馥奇香系列的基调。

前调

最易挥发的物质，在前十五分钟内就会闻到气味。通常是柑橘类、芳香类水果和清淡水果。

复古

In this database, used carefully: a bottle produced during the period of an earlier formula, before a documented reformulation. Not simply 'old' — a 1990s bottle of a still-current formula is old but not informative in the same way.

批发/仿冒

Copies sold as original. Counterfeiters print batch codes, so a code that decodes correctly proves nothing. Physical checks — bottle weight, crimp, nozzle, printing quality — matter more than the code.