Bouquet de Faunes

Bouquet de Faunes opens on a suede-jasmine-neroli trio that reads more like a gloved hand than a flower bouquet, which sets the tone for what follows. The heart is unusually dense even by 1920s standards: amber and carnation, marjoram and lavender, iris, violet, rose, ylang-ylang, geranium, neroli and Brazilian rosewood all crowd in, giving a powdery-aromatic middle that shifts with every wearing. The base is where collectors will linger — castoreum, leather, civetta, musk and costus over tonka, tobacco, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla and amber, a leather-musky animalic foundation with a woody, powdery tail.

This is a Jacques Guerlain composition from 1922 and behaves accordingly: heavy, complex, and unforgiving of a rushed application. It suits collectors of vintage leathers and animalic chypres who want something demanding rather than pretty, and it wears best in cool weather or evening. Sample first if you are new to castoreum and civetta; those who know the territory will find the drydown worth the patience.

開場以麂皮、茉莉與橙花揭幕，皮革感先於花香，為整體定下沉穩基調。中調極為繁密：琥珀、康乃馨、馬鬱蘭、薰衣草、鳶尾、紫羅蘭、玫瑰、依蘭依蘭、天竺葵、橙花與巴西玫瑰木層層交疊，散發粉質而帶香脂的複雜氣息。基調由海狸香、皮革、麝貓香、麝香與柯斯土斯構成，再以零陵香豆、煙草、岩蘭草、廣藿香、香莢蘭與琥珀收尾，動物皮革感濃厚，尾韻木質而粉潤。

此乃1922年雅克·嬌蘭之作，氣質厚重、結構繁複，並非輕巧易穿的日常香。適合鍾情古董皮革與動物性香調的收藏者，秋冬或晚間使用最為合宜。若未曾接觸海狸香與麝貓香，建議先試香；熟悉此類風格者，會欣賞其緩慢展開的乾燥尾調。